Post 3 - Raising the Ideal K9 Partner and Perfect Companion

Playing Catch-Up, the Last 5 Days With Nick

In this post I will focus on catching up on the last 5+ days or so of living with Carmspack Nick, what I have recognized and, if time permits, how I will work with him based on what I have experienced thus far. I may have to go into more detail for the pet people reading this blog so that they can better understand why I do what I do and the manner in which I do it

I have to say that this has to be the easiest puppy I have worked with yet. He is still clean in his crate, still handler-focussed, still neutral to strangers and, for the most part, quiet but BOLD. He is displaying some key traits that will likely develop into something that is ideal for his intended future career. Not sure what more I could ask for at this point... I can only hope that this does not put off the pet people who are reading this blog and looking for guidance in dealing with a difficult puppy, because he is not a good example of a difficult puppy at all.

Let's get this rolling along so I can get back to Nick. It is pouring rain outside, thunder, lightning so I would like to get back out there before the chaos ends.

Day 1 left me with the impression that Nick was perfect, or close to it. Well, as it turns out, he is a bit ahead of me in training and offering things I did not expect and I misread him a number of times. Remember when I mentioned the key points regarding house training and that, if you have the puppy loose in the house you must watch him 100%?

Well, I broke my own rule... in fact, it was an epic failure on my part. While playing on my iPhone, I attempted to keep an eye on Nick as he wandered about the place, from dining room to living room to breakfast nook (where there are sliding doors which we have exited from once already for a bathroom break). To make this long story short, Nick indicated that he wanted out, which was subtle but, due to my distraction, it was overlooked. In frustration, he bounded away from the door onto the (porcelain tile) floor of the living room where he deposited what remained of his tripe breakfast. No problem, easy to clean up, after I ran Nick to the door and took him outside where he completed his mission and was praised and played with as a reward for a job well done.

NO, YOU DO NOT TAKE THE PUPPY TO THE SCENE OF THE CRIME AND RUB THEIR FACE IN IT!!! Just as you would not take the diaper off of an infant and punish them rubbing it in their face and acting aggressively toward them. This instance was completely my fault and, if anyone should learn anything from this, it is me. Nick even indicated to me what was about to go down (literally) and I chose to ignore it. I was over it as quick as it happened. The key to getting over this is to look at the scenario as a "training opportunity missed" as opposed to an act of disobedience or disrespect. Look at what you could change, be it management, or the process related to training and CHANGE IT!!! Don't repeat what is not working, it will not change anything and don't allow your emotions get the best of you. This goes for every aspect of your relationship with your dog.

Nick, and the Big, Wide-Open World

Bringing a puppy to a wide-open space can be somewhat
daunting. This large expanse of grass (sod farm field)
can create a feeling of vulnerability which can be
an unnerving experience, even for myself

Our first off-property venture would be to a fantastic tracking location that I had come across some time ago. It is nicely out of the way, quiet without the threat of too much traffic. Mr. Jon Ryan, good friend, track-layer and (sometimes) decoy would accompany us on our outing. The photos provide somewhat of an idea of how open and uniform this surface was. While Jon laid tracks at the far end of the field for his dogs, while Nick and I ventured into the field. Now, understanding that dogs can sometimes be sensitive to the vulnerability of being in such a wide open space, you would assume that I would walk right out to the middle and essentially flood the puppy with the surroundings. No... not yet, at least not with the limited time we have spent together (although in hind site I believe Nick would not have been affected). We have had only one day together at this point, so I opted to venture approximately 40' into the open area leaving the tree line and roadway at my back and left, to create somewhat of a feeling of containment. Nick was unaffected... like a stone. His interest was directed at the occasional blowing leaf, which he would venture off to look at, but always return to my side... but this is where it gets interesting...

This photo gives you an idea of the openness of this vast sea of
smooth sod. It's a surreal experience to stand or sit out in something so
uniform that stretches so far. Note the  look of calm in Nicks expression.

Nick left my side to interact with a leaf blowing
in the perfect sea of green but returned calmly
once the item was investigated.

During my last post I provided a detailed account of  Nick setting up post at the foot of my chair while I worked at my computer. This, I assumed, was a product of attraction to the cat combined with my presence, but this would prove to be incorrect based on what happened next. 

Upon returning from across the field after laying a track, Jon's form could be made out roughly. As he drew closer to our location, naturally, he appeared to be growing in size as he approached. At about 60 yards away, Nick became aware of this movement and monitored his progress towards us until he was approximately 10-15 yards away, at which time Nick stood, moved forward from our spot, placing himself between both Jon and I (See photo below). At approximately 15-20' away Jon

stopped and stood staring at Nick and I in a relaxed manner. There was only a small pause as he stood assessing Jon and then advanced on him, paying a bit of disrespect (for lack of a better term) by jumping and bopping Jon in the groin area and engaging him briefly then returning to me after. No growling,  shrieking, hackling, barking and carrying on. No more than a small "woof" under his breath when Jon was approaching, never backing up. Perfect. 

I deal with  many adolescent and adult dogs (mostly show line GSD's) that could not handle this situation very well and would require many repetitions of being exposed to this type of scenario to create desensitization... some never will become desensitized. The key words in this concept that needs to be understood are "create desensitization", meaning that the dogs perception would be altered through multiple repetitions or variations of the scenario until they (in this instance) no longer perceive a threat or offer an alternate response. Starting with something that responds naturally in a desirable fashion as Nick did is the best place to start, a great foundation to build on. You would never attempt to build a quality home on a shoddy foundation with the intentions of going back at a later date to try to repair or replace the foundation... that would be twice as much work and the potential for failure is great. Instead, start with something ideal and build on it. So far, Nicks responses are ideal for my purposes.

Jon's return from track laying prompted Nick to advance
towards him.. Jon is just out of the frame about 20-30 yards
away at this point.

 At home, Nick has started to blossom into a much bolder puppy. He is beginning to engage me in play, mouthing/biting/tearing my clothes, playing tug, venturing into new areas and developing some patterns of behaviour that work well for him to deal with the stimulation that day-to-day events bring. He still does not enjoy entering the crate and he has to be loaded in, however, his resistance is lessening and he does not seem affected by it in any way. He has been on multiple truck rides in his crate without sign of stress (drooling, frantic behaviour, etc.). Random retrieval exercises result in him bringing back thrown objects on a fairly consistent basis however I do not put pressure on the situation opting to do random retrieval exercises. I have, on multiple occasions, been walking through our yard with Nick at heel and drop an object (in an obvious manner) where he sees it drop. He falls out of heel to retrieve the object and catch up again the majority of the time, however, at this point in time, if the object is difficult to pick up and carry he may opt to run to the object and run back to me without picking up. This is very good so far.

The Development of Nick's Natural Motivation to Search

Nick has developed a very strong attachment to me in a short period of time. Although it was early, I decided that it was time to manipulate this attachment and use it to motivate Nick to search/track.

Nicks natural inclination is to stay with his handler (me). To see me leave without the ability to follow me should create some anxiety,  especially when I am walking away from him and eventually, out of sight while Nick is being restrained by a complete stranger. This is exactly how our first search exercises are normally carried out. I generally work in long grass or brush for this exercise so that I can remain hidden while Nick is released and he searches for me. The initial searches may only be 10' long, however, we allow the puppy to work through the situation without us interrupting him, and without assistance from anyone. We allow the puppy to work through the scenario and realize that the use of his nose is the quickest way to locate what he wants. There is no food used or other enticements.

Our first searches were completed at the sod farm, specifically in the rough areas that make up the perimeter of the farm. My friend and assistant Jon restrained the puppy and, once I was hidden, released him. The anxiety created by my departure caused Nick to squirm, wiggle and, by time he was released, completely forget where my entry point into the long grass was. He circled around and hunted back and forth until eventually, his nose went up, he snorted and drove forward into the long grass to my exact position. We would play this out again at my home with my daughter as my assistant (see video).

At first, we perform this exercise as a free search, meaning, it is done off lead but eventually we attached a line to a collar and have him track. The video at right is a demonstration of how we do our initial free searches. There are some subtle handling techniques that you will hear me teaching my daughter in this video which help to intensify the puppy for the search. She does it very well for her age. He persistently works until he finds me, which is important. He does not simply "hang out" with the individual who was holding him in hopes that she will point me out, he takes initiative and begins searching. You will notice that he starts off to the right hand side. This is where our first search took place 3 minutes before. Knowing that he had success in this area before, I am not surprised that he would revisit this area. WE DO NOT STEER HIM AT ALL OR DIRECT HIM!!!... this would only make the puppy dependant on the handler for direction during future searches. There will be time for directed searches later.

This is a key component for any search/detection/police service dog, a natural inclination to search, with intensity and endless motivation. Great!

The Time Spent Between Working Sessions

Socks make fantastic retrieval items. Instead
of creating conflict with your puppy by
taking the socks away, grab a second pair
and do a retrieval exercise!

So, aside from all of the accomplishments, what do Nick and I do with the remainder of the time? Well, a good portion of his day is spent kennelled but let out frequently for bathroom breaks, walks, riding in the truck, basic tasks around our property (including exposure to machinery noise from tractors, mowers, weed whippers and chainsaws) and, due to my business being located on my property, I have a number of different clients that I interact with on a daily basis. Nick is exposed to these interactions as well. This provides a great variety of people experience without leaving the property, which is a great place to start with a new puppy. We also have Nick loose with us in the house on occasion. House training is coming along very well after my initial mishap where I lost focus. We did have one unfortunate incident however. My wife was monitoring Nick when he went to the back door and squatted. She went to rush to get him outside and stubbed her toe on one of our breakfast nook stools. What was supposed to be a stubbed toe ended up being a trip to the E.R. to have 4 stitches to close a wound. It appears her baby toe was bent back so far during the "stubbing" that it tore the flesh at the base of the toe... not pleasant. Puppy raising suddenly had an element of danger added.

Just a note to those who are interested. I have added house training to the list of to-do's due to the fact that there are a number of agencies (mostly in the U.S.) where the police K9's live in the home with the K9 officer's family. I feel that this is an important skill to have and makes the dog that much easier to place.

A Word or Two About Socialization

Socialization. I hear a great deal of discussion surrounding this topic where the term itself is tossed about like candy at a Santa Claus parade, but nobody really explains the manner in which this should be carried out in the first place. It's used as an excuse for an animals behaviour (eg. "He acts aggressively towards other dogs because he was not well socialized") or as part of a blanket statement that provides an all-encompassing explanation ("socialization is important for dogs"). Many problems arise due to errors in carrying out this process, but what's the solution to a socialization issue... or, better yet, where is the prevention? Where is the guide to properly socializing your dog? The answer to these questions lies in your final goal. I will provide my goal for you and indicate how I intend to work towards it.

Goal: A service dog is intended to work with a handler, to perform tasks with great motivation and intensity while still keeping its composure. The presence of dogs and other animals should be met with neutrality, acknowledgement is acceptable, but returning to work after acknowledgement is made is what is most desirable. Better yet is a dog that is so obsessed with its work that it is oblivious to the usual distractions. The satisfaction and reward in this dogs life should come from engaging in the work itself, simply because the dog enjoys it so much.

To achieve this, it is important to teach tasks separate from the introduction to new experiences. 

Process: I will teach Nick to search for an object or person (as illustrated in the video above) in an open area, free of other animals or objects. This would be worked at slowly, over time, increasing the difficulty and area that must be searched. Search sessions would be light, fun and random. As Nick begins to show a strong motivation to perform this task, the task becomes increasingly more difficult, but in the same, simple environment.

Aside from the task of searching (completely separate) Nick will be prepared with experiences that dull him to specific stimulus. For example, the presence of other dogs (see video below) is something I would like to "dull" him to right from the start. Eventually, the task of searching would be carried out in varying environments and then, I would introduce the presence of other dogs while searching, bringing together the task and experience. 

To encourage the neutral response to dogs, I utilize mature dogs that I have raised to set the mood for this experience. Initially, the first time that Nick met our personal dogs, he was "on fire", barking at the constant movement of each of them. I would make a point of isolating him when this nonsense would start by stepping quickly away from him the moment it started, leaving him without the comfort of my immediate presence... not desirable from his point of view and a no-conflict way of putting a break in this behaviour. 

Over a short period of time, once over the initial exposure to 3 large dogs, Nick would steal a quick sniff or attempt to make contact with the rear quarters of each dog as it would pass. During this process, I make a solid effort not to stand still for too long. Being the puppies main lifeline, he is quite sensitive to my movements/position and, by making myself somewhat unpredictable by moving, he is preoccupied with focussing on me, taking the focus off of the other dogs that are also moving about. This "buys time" and, during this time, he is exposed to the presence of other dogs in a scenario where nothing negative happens and he has an opportunity to work with me.

I do not encourage the dogs to play together but do not discourage it either. I try to keep the stimulation low so that the adult dogs do not engage each other in games of chase while Nick is present (this is also why, when I raise more than one puppy at a time, I do not give them opportunity to play together, except through the fence between their outdoor runs). This would only drive up the stimulation that could set the puppy off. Instead I reward the mature dogs for focus and response toward me. This often takes the mature dogs focus off of the puppy, allowing the puppy to sneak a quick sniff or two. If the puppy becomes too obnoxious I allow the adults to "school him" with regards to what is appropriate, which often reduces the intensity of the puppy in this situation. On the rare occasion I will interrupt the puppy if I feel he is becoming too obnoxious or intense however I prefer not to be involved to the point where I could create a conflict with the pup.

I hope that the video might illustrate some of these points a bit better, although this is the second interaction so Nick is more familiar with the scenario making my movement less necessary because he has calmed considerably to the presence of the other dogs. At this point I try to keep things light and flowing along. Notice the large shepherd that I am tossing the Kong with? That is Carmspack Badger, our pet. He was initially raised for service but we opted to keep him after the passing of our beloved Bouvier/Rottweiler mix Xena. His neutrality to dogs is unbelievable and perfect for just such an exercise. Those who have interacted with him or whose dogs have interacted with him understand what I am talking about. Cool with strangers, driven, hard as nails... almost perfect, except that he is a bull in a china shop of sorts which the puppy (Nick) learns when he get under foot.

I was, at this point, going to provide (in great detail) why I do not use the dog park to socialize my dogs, however, I will save that for another post.

Aside from the dog experience mentioned above, Nick had an opportunity to attend a function held at our facility. A local training facility (Dogs On Campus, owned by Cindy Boht) held an agility fun match using our fields, for those clients looking to prepare for competition. There were many quick-moving, active dogs at this event, providing a great deal of motion for Nick to take in. A great experience for a young puppy. All dogs were on leash or contained so there was no direct interaction. A perfect opportunity to be around activity but without reactive dogs. Many people were present as well, which made for a more well-rounded experience.

I think that is it for now. Next post covers our first on-line track and a few new experiences.

www.clpr.ca

Post 2 - Raising the Ideal K9 Partner and the Perfect Companion

The Structure of this Blog Going Forward

I will try to structure this post, and posts to follow, in an order which is simple to follow and, with some luck, interesting to read. Understand that this is not a "how-to" manual to raise a puppy. As I mentioned in the previous post, raising a puppy is more of a creative process and, although goals may be the same for each puppy, the journey to the goal may vary. Take time to enjoy the process, avoid getting preoccupied with the difficulties and truly focus on the achievements and successes.

Naturally, I will start at day 1 with Carmspack Nick (the new recruit) and move on from there. I will discuss what we did and my observations (basically). Where possible I will include photos or video but I must warn you that video may be limited to short snippets intended to convey key information or illustrate development of a behaviour. Unfortunately, recording on a regular basis is not an option as I do not have a film crew at my disposal and I, most definitely, cannot be recording as it interrupts and takes me away from my primary goal and that is to work with and observe Nick. Add to this the fact that I refuse to "make" things look good for a camera so frustration is bound to play a role. Nick will develop at his speed and attempting to rush him along to fit and agenda or to "show off" will only be counterproductive. He has time to develop, and, in my experience, he will show me when he is ready to work on a new behaviour, task or exercise. I won't be letting the thought of capturing each moment interrupt this. I will leave it to the trainers on television to provide the viewers with the instant results and leave the audience baffled with bullshit explanations and nonsense theories. What you see in this blog is the straight goods (and "bads" for that matter). I am far from perfect.

Following the outline of my interactions with Nick I may then opt to make suggestions for others who are also be raising puppies, to assist them in surviving the puppy stage. Failing this, I may discuss other related topics or, depending on the day, I may simply rant about something important (to me). Either way, it will be dog related.

Carmspack Nick - Day 1 -
2 hours after his arrival, relaxing with my daughter 

Day 1 - The "Honeymoon" Phase

Nick arrived, clean and quiet in his crate on August 28th. Although he has been here before (for approximately 2 hours with his littermate), Nick plunked down out of the van and awaited his handlers (Carmen) next move. As she moved away from the van it became quite evident that, although he was aware of the environment around him, he was able to shift his focus from environment to handler with ease. Even the presence of my personal dogs that were penned only feet away was not enough to break his focus for more than a quick glance as he passed. I realize that, at 10 weeks of age, some would say that this is a conditioned behaviour, however, 3 weeks prior the same behaviour was quite evident when they visited for the first time. I was assured by Carmen that this is what they do, on their own, without treats, toys, bribes of any kind, no intended conditioning. Skeptical? So was I when I heard the explanation...

I do know that puppies generally follow their handler or person they are most familiar with. As a litter, they bumble along, following like a school of fish sometimes tussling with each other as they go and having to play catch up when the handler moves too far ahead. Often times, when I interact with an individual puppy, they will follow a similar pattern of behaviour, biting at pant legs and getting distracted by the odd leaf, feather or other piece of debris that might blow past. They are babies, and I expect them be distracted by their environment, it's part of development, it's natural and a puppy should not be rejected based on something so normal.

After an hour of being left with us, Nick began to perform a variation of this focussed behaviour with me as I moved about, rested, moved about again. Now, for those who are involved in competition obedience or sport obedience (schutzhund, etc.) I do not want you to get the impression that this young pup is performing an unnatural, choreographed, razor-sharp, prancing heel like I see so often at trials or being practiced at the club level. I realize that what is being taught there is a very refined set of movements and I do respect the work and the effort put in, but what I am describing about this puppy is some thing different. Instead, Nick walked along beside me, monitoring me in his peripheral and with occasional glances, mouth open, bright-eyed, ears up while surveying the world around him (in this case, the world around him included dogs barking at us from behind the fence at our boarding kennel). I generally have to work quite hard to develop this "sensitivity" to the handler through training (especially with my clients dogs) and here this little lump was offering it without question, without running off to the other dogs or even my kennel staff who tried to call him from me. 

Already we had begun to bond and the "coldness" to strangers that I have come to expect from a Carmspack dog was present... again, perfect. Please understand that by "cold" to strangers I mean neutral and not interested or drawn to. The dogs I raise are not attention whores who crave interaction with people outside of their circle of familiarity (call it a family or pack). Outsiders are not aggressed upon but are not greeted with open arms either. Outsiders are not jumped all over in a hectic, bouncing flurry either (I cannot stand this). Cold (with strangers) and confident is a perfect combination in my opinion, regardless of their final purpose (service, pet, etc.). No ridiculous, stress-induced mugging of visitors, incessant barking, lunging, bouncing, whining, pawing/clawing at visitors... no unwarranted displays of aggression or other antics. Just lots of focus on the people that matter... in this case, me ;) Unless there is a perceived threat, strangers should be treated like they are present but not worthy of the pups attention except for an initial greeting. However, if a puppy (for whatever reason) is drawn to a stranger, I do not make a fuss and I allow the puppy to interact with them at length if they wish. This is rare but it does happen on occasion and is completely fine, so long as the prolonged interaction does not lead to any conflict (will discuss conflict later).

Nick descending the front stairs

Physically, Nick appeared to be WELL fed when he arrived. I was informed that he had accidentally consumed a considerable quantity of Orijen kibble intended for his brother who was transitioning to kibble in preparation for his new home (I may include a story regarding this). Regardless, Nick was still physically robust, moving very well and deceptively fast for his somewhat bowling ball shape. His ability to ascend and descend stairs was quite impressive. Each step was a calculated, smooth motion. Many of my previous puppies made mad dashes up and down whereas he placed each foot as he stepped. He heeled beside me on the stairs even!!!
Initially I thought that his slow, methodical approach to stair climbing was due to being unsure but it became evident that he was completely comfortable when he pivoted on his front feet, mid-step to turn 180º and head back down the stairs. The only time he paused on stairs was when I made the rookie mistake of inviting him up as I sat part-way up the steps. Realizing my mistake, I opted to simply walk up the steps and he moved right along with me, without hesitation. Perfect... you will be hearing the word "perfect" a great deal in the next entries because I am well into day 5 as I write this post and this is just the beginning of what will be a number of very revealing days ahead.

Day one came to a close. We had ventured out onto the property, climbed stairs, went for a truck ride in a crate in the back of a pickup beside another crated dog, piled wood (yes, he walked with us for an hour while we piled firewood), encountered multiple people in multiple places on the property, saw many other (contained) dogs, retrieved a ball or two, went in the house, ate, pee'd, pooped... he's 10 weeks old, this was a huge, huge day. He was crated, on and off, throughout the first day. Whenever I was not watching him 100% he was crated. This is the only way, in my opinion, to raise a puppy efficiently without having destruction of some sort and a house soiling issue that goes out of control. A very, very important tool that I feel is often misused and misunderstood. For those of you crying out the word "inhumane"... I can't help you. Move on.

Nick at rest, at my feet, yet still aware
of the cat lurking in the hallway

One last note regarding Nick that I thought I should mention and this also falls into the discussion of natural obedience that I covered above, in paragraphs 1 - 3. As I sat down in my chair to write my first blog entry, I realized that Nick was roaming about still and,  knowing that I would be distracted with writing, I realized that it was in our best interest to crate him while I was distracted. Just as I was about to get up out of my chair to put him in his crate, Nick, as if on cue, circled my chair and laid beside me facing back. He laid there, still as can be while I worked for about 10 minutes... I got up for a drink, he got up and with me to the kitchen and laid at my feet while I stood and had a glass of water. I returned to my seat, he returned to his position. When the cat tried to sneak behind me through the office, Nick immediately put the run on him, and returned quickly to his spot beside my chair and laid back down. Awesome. No chewing of my feet (yet), no whining, jumping on me for attention, just calm and quiet. We will be sure to work through the intense cat bursts later as I do not want this to become obsessive behaviour, however, it will not let it become a source of conflict for us as a team. My next post will include a similar response in a different environment as we headed out onto a field we use for tracking...

So far, so good. 

Additional Notes For the Pet People

For those of you bringing home a puppy for the first day, do your best to be completely prepared. First of all, some basic equipment and supplies:

The breakaway collar in unclasped and clasped
state. Fine for casual use but I would not trust it
for walking a dog of considerable size. Note the
plastic clips that deteriorate with use and age.
They often develop weaknesses that cannot
be detected until it's too late

• crate/kennel (I prefer plastic, but metal are ok
• leash (leather is good, nylon is ok, Gripper® Leashes are fantastic... AVOID chain leashes)
• flat collar (pin and buckle style, like a belt you would wear to hold your pants up... AVOID plastic clip collars or, what I refer to as "breakaway" collars that, with wear and tear, become weak and release when least expected. No prong collars or electronics will be used on this puppy, it is totally unnecessary. Choke collars are only used for exercises where the potential to "back out" of a regular collar could occur.
• food bowls small enough to fit in the crate as well as a water dish/hanging bucket to hang on the front door of the crate
• appropriate food: grain free kibble such as Orijen or a raw diet which I have fed with great results for the past 10+ years...its more cost effective than Orijen or feeding crap food and paying for the resulting medical bills when your dog develops condition relating to the crap food
• A Kong® toy, always a favourite, cheap and durable. Get a floaty one with a rope if you intend on working in water eventually, but don't go and buy a pile of toys as it is totally unnecessary

Now, to prepare your house and have a plan of management:

• Choose where in the yard you want the puppy to relieve itself
• Anticipate the door that you will be going out to get to this spot
• Place your crate as close as conveniently possible to this place
• NO, do not put the crate in your bedroom
• Instruct family members on the importance of completely closing doors and gates to avoid unwanted escapes
• determine what areas of the house you want the puppy to have access to and use baby gates for others... baby gates can also be used for small children who wish to interact with the puppy but prefer not to be chewed on. This will help to avoid conflict as well
• Explain to each family member that, if they have the puppy out of the crate, they must watch the puppy 100% and, in the event that the puppy looks like it needs to pee or poop, that they need to get that puppy to the designated place in the yard ASAP! Do not scold the puppy for going in the house if it happens, the objective is to catch them prior and get them outside. You will begin to recognize the puppies behavioural patterns prior to relieving itself, which will help you immensely. More on house training later.
• DO NOT provide the puppy with constant attention. It should experience separation from you frequently throughout the day, which means crating them. DO NOT cave in when they whine and cry, in fact, if you are weak and feel you cannot resist the urge to come to their rescue, go outside and do something productive. Feel free to let them out when they are calm and immediately go outside to the relief spot.

That's enough for now, I must get prepared to cover that last 5 days with Nick.

www.clpr.ca

POST 1 - Raising the Ideal K9 Partner and the Perfect Companion

Carmspack Nick, approx. 7 weeks of age,
approximately 3 weeks before
showing up at our door. 

After numerous requests and inquiries I have decided to make blog entries detailing the process of raising a puppy. It's important to understand that this is somewhat of a creative process. What I will be outlining is the manner in which I will be working with THIS puppy. It is also very important to understand that puppies, being living things, vary from puppy to puppy and, contrary to popular belief, they are not preprogrammed and are not all the same, regardless of breed, or whether they are from the same breeder, parents or even the same litter. They are individuals, therefore our approach to training/raising them must be flexible to account for this.

They are not robots and do not come preprogrammed.

My latest recruit that I will be raising for police service is "Nick" from Carmspack Kennels. Now, before those of you who wanted information on raising a puppy as a house pet decide to move on, let me let you in on a little secret. The preparation of a puppy for service is not much different than what I would recommend for a pet. What I look to create for the purposes of service is, in my opinion, key to developing a puppy into a well-rounded pet. A driven/motivated, handler-focussed, responsive dog that is neutral to strangers, neutral in the presence of other animals and a pleasure to live with. A dog that behaves in an acceptable manner in the eyes of the general public. The only variations that may be recognized throughout this documentation are that:

1. I start with select animals who are purpose-bred and carefully selected
2. I go to great lengths to expose the pup to new environments
3. My feeding protocol may vary (raw fed) and I will not be following traditional vaccination and preventative protocols as they are not necessary in my opinion (discussion for later post)

You will also notice that there are some specialized exercises that I introduce the puppy to (eg. tracking, scent detection, retrieval, obedience, agility, etc.) that pet owners may not have an interest in doing with their dogs (but they really should, hint, hint). These exercises are fun to do, get you off the couch and help you build a relationship with your puppy. This is the foundation of what you are about to build... don't skimp on this part, but don't overdo it either.

For Those Who Do Not Know Me and Even Those That Do...

By nature, I am the type of person who prefers to work alone. I make a strong effort to avoid training clubs and groups of dog enthusiasts not because I am a snob or close-minded but simply due to the overwhelming politics and agendas of people in general. It saves me time and puts the onus on me to analyze, troubleshoot and solve training issues on my own (to some degree). This is not to say that I am too proud to ask others for help and/or guidance or that I am antisocial. I simply like to stay on task, choose my route (preferably as direct as possible), and ultimately, be successful in achieving my goals.  My greatest joy comes from the breakthroughs and successes that I experience with my dogs. Whether it be a simple obedience exercise, a search exercise or simply an exercise to teach a dog to settle, the satisfaction of seeing change influenced by me is what is most satisfying. It is truly a beautiful thing when there is understanding between a handler and their dog...

I realize that others may not feel the same way and that the social aspect of dog related activities is what drives them, which is fantastic... to each his/her own. There is nothing wrong with this, just not my personal cup of tea.

(Motivation = Opportunity) x Success + Reward = Obsession

Carmspack Agro, PSD as a pup (photo: jclayphoto)

In 2007 I was offered an opportunity that would change training for me forever. It revitalized my interest in doing what I loved when it had become stale. I am the type of person who needs to reinvent what they do in order to stay motivated and dealing with the pet public had become somewhat repetitive in nature, and, for lack of a better word, boring. Furthermore, I had lost interest and was disappointed with the K9 sports I was involved with which were wrought with politics, egos and just poor training. It was a learning experience nonetheless, and has reinforced, for me, the importance of patience and how crucial it is to have a true understanding of your goals and the steps to get there. 

Carmspack Gore (renamed "Thor"), PSD at approximately 11 months old, prior to leaving for Oregon.

After reconnecting with Carmen Duggan of Carmspack Kennels, I was graciously provided an opportunity to learn about the German Shepherd Dog, about pedigree analysis (which I am still learning), and, most importantly, I was given the opportunity to raise and prepare two (puppy) candidates for service. These two puppies (Carmspack Gore and Carmspack Agro) were an eye opener for me and, because I had an opportunity to do the majority of work with these puppies on my own, it was very enjoyable and a fantastic learning experience. It was also a chance to become acquainted with true working line German Shepherds, something that I lacked experience with. At this point I will not go into detail regarding the difference between working and showline dogs as that could make up a post on its own. However, it might be interesting to know that German Shepherd dogs make up roughly 50% of the training clients that I have (out of all the breeds out there), most of which are training with me due to behavioural issues of which the majority are aggression cases and, of all of the problem GSD's I work with, currently 100% are showline dogs... I will go into detail about this at a later time.

The opportunity that was provided to me by Carmen would result in 2 successes, each dog received initial testing, each was placed with an officer, both dogs certified after their training courses completed (one certified ahead of schedule). I had success, in my first attempts at something that I had no previous experience in... a great feeling. 

See links to these dogs here: 

https://sites.google.com/site/countrylanepsd/carmspack-agro-success-page 

and here:

https://sites.google.com/site/countrylanepsd/carmspack-gore-success. 

After all of my hard work, learning, and applying what I had learned, I had success and it was extremely satisfying. My motivation to reinvent what I once loved to do developed into an opportunity. With this opportunity came success, a reward in and of itself. Couple this with monetary compensation (very minimal compensation... topic for another post) and the obsession to carry on in this field of training was set. A life-changing event indeed.

Thanks Carmen.

Myself and Carmspack Silva, now a certified bomb detection dog and quite possibly
the best dog I have ever worked with. (photo: jclayphoto)

Carmspack Stark, PSD.
See Starks page here: https://sites.google.com/site/countrylanepsd/successes-references/carmspack-stark-success-page

The Successes, Missed Opportunities and Changes of Plan

Carmspack Griffin,  executive protection
and pet in Muskoka (photo jclayphoto)

Carmspack Fedor with owner Simon

Contrary to popular belief, not all of the dogs that are raised with the intent of placing into service roles actually make it into their intended positions. On occasion, private clients (see photo at right of Carmspack Fedor) will purchase these young dogs for pet, competition and personal protection purposes. Sometimes, the demand for dogs for service goes "soft" and placement is not in the cards. These dogs may go into private companies for the purposes of detection or security work. However, there are a few dogs that may not have the special aptitude to be placed in a working position. These dogs are found appropriate pet homes where they live out their days as someones pet... which is not a simple role to fill in many cases ;) This variation in the "plan" is what has to be accounted for at the outset. This is why the process of raising a puppy is so important. Regardless of its final destination, all puppies need the experience and guidance to get along in this world, whether it be in a working position or as a couch potatoe. All require some very basic skills to be managed and have good patterns of desirable behavior that make them a pleasure to be with while still being "experienced" and confident that they can cope with the world around them. Some dogs, genetically, do not have the soundness to do this, which is a shame. I have yet to experience this with the dogs that I raise.

Enough With the Introduction, Let's Get On With It Already!

Well, now that I have probably put-off some readers with the long introduction and potentially left most with more questions than answers, it's time to get prepared for what is to come. The puppy has been here just over 48 hours as I type these words and the following are a few observations I have made.

Carmspack Nick's arrival

Let's get the "fluff" out of the way first:

• He is cute
• He has sharp little teeth
• He barks at the cat
• He sometimes run faster than his feet can manage
• His name is Nickolas (Nick)

Things that actually matter (to me):

• He is quiet in his crate (Yes, it is completely humane, don't be foolish, be sure to crate train your puppy!)
• He is, for the most part, clean in his crate (no poop or pee to clean up)
• He is raw fed 
• He displays "genetic obedience"                   (will explain later)
• He is food motivated
• He is toy motivated
• He will venture into rough terrain or new places
• He ascends and descends stairs and deals with obstacles in a methodical, coordinated manner, no hectic scrambling up or down
• He is surefooted (see "h" regarding stairs)
• He is quite "hard" (a term I will explain later)
• His nose works well to search things out
• His appetite is good

I think that sums it up for this entry. I promise, the next entry will be dedicated to Nick and applicable to the majority of puppies out there.

If you wish, feel free to look through my (very crude, roughly constructed) website at https://sites.google.com/site/countrylanepsd/Home or www.clpr.ca

Cheers for now!

What's Next?

I realize that my last blog entry was... well... a bit lengthy and the time between entries was a bit.... lengthy.... and I apologize... but that isn't going to change anytime soon! :)

The next entrie(s) will be discussions regarding my experiences dealing with behavioral issues both privately and in a class environment with my dogs and other peoples dogs. This will not be simply me "showcasing" my incredible talent, LOL. These discussions will be just the opposite. Discussing my mistakes, things that were overlooked and, most importantly, how other environmental factors (aside from training) were altered with drastic results. These environmental factors include containment, companionship, diet, vaccination and other preventative, medications, handling as well as a discussion regarding the genetic impact that these factors can have on future generations. The material that I will share will not be limited to my experiences and I will be relying on the knowledge of others to support what I am trying to get across (I often have great ideas and work through them/apply them successfully, but to explain them sends me into a hectic spin :P . In other words, there will be some guest speakers brought in. Again, nobody has to agree or disagree, these are simply opinions (based on experience).

If anyone has anything they might want to see me add to the environmental factors list above, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Cheers!

As Seen on TV...

This blog entry is not intended to offend anyone. As I mentioned before, my blog entries will be used to express my opinions and share my experiences as a dog trainer. Feel free to make comments, positive or negative (criticism should be accompanied with an explanation) and share your own experiences.

I am the first to admit that I am not certified as a dog trainer, have not earned diplomas or had any "formal" instruction when it comes to dog training. This is not because I am lazy, lack commitment or dedication. I have a college diploma in Graphic Design and 15 years experience in that field and own my own successful small business(es). I am not closed-minded or, in my opinion (others may vary) an ignorant person in general, nor do I feel that my way is the only way (but it is my favourite way:). The simple fact is that there is no institution that I have found that offers a complete program for K9 training. I would imagine that if there was such a program that it would be a rather long course, be expensive and provide little in the way of monetary compensation when completed. Each and every program that I looked into was slanted towards a specific method or philosophy, which is fine as long as the students attending the program understand this and realize that there is much, much more to learn (most of which can only be learned through first-hand experience). It is impossible to learn everything you will need to know to be an effective trainer in a single course offering only one viewpoint. I am a firm believer that there are things that cannot be taught and even though individuals may learn the basic theory and mechanics behind a process, they may lack the "feel" and natural ability to adapt when what they have been "taught" fails to work. Add to this ability the need for the trainer to relay this information to the dog owner/handler and suddenly the situation becomes very complex. At this point, unless the trainer has experience and truly knows what they are doing they are simply relaying instructions and losing some very subtle but important details in the process.

So, how did I learn?

Many people who are interested in training or becoming trainers often ask me "So, how did you learn all of this?". This is a very difficult question to answer completely. I guess it's best to start at the very beginning (you may want to grab a coffee at this point because this is going to take a

while)....

Like most children, I was raised by my parents to be kind to animals, to respect them as living things that have feelings, but, unlike most children, I was also raised to understand that their motivations and goals are not the same as mine. I was not misled into thinking my dog "loved" me unconditionally and that my dog enjoyed or understood human displays of affection (something children today and tomorrow should understand). I was taught that my dog relied on me for providing basic necessities, something that was my (our) responsibility to provide once we established this commensal relationship. They also relied on us for assistance when medical issues came about (mostly porcupine-related in our case:) and to provide shelter for extreme weather. In my opinion, my parents did a great job teaching me this, leaving me with a respect for animals that left room for warmth, affection and compassion but a strong dose of reality accompanied with a well-defined understanding of the responsibilities of pet "ownership" (with the exception of preventing unplanned littersof which my dog had 4 that I can remember...yikes). It kept me safe as a child (for the most part) and allowed me to look at dog training from an angle that many would not. Sure, I feel that my dog enjoyed my companionship in its own way, even loved me perhaps, but this was never something that clouded my judgement (at this point I could spin off into a definition of "love" that would start a debate, but this is not a relationship blog :). For those of you who have met me, I am sure many of you think I am cold when it comes to my dogs, but for those of you who really know me, well, you know a much different person.... enough of the sappy crap for now.

My dogs have always been treated/respected/trained like dogs. My challenge as a child was to manipulate that motivation to my advantage. I do not believe that my parents ever realized the amount of time I spent with my first dog Buffy, the things I taught her to do, and how much I relied on those interactions with her to give me confidence (I never even realized until recently). When things would get "turbulent" at home, Buffy and I would escape across the road and up the hill or into the forest behind my home where we would spend a great deal of time searching for things, playing games and just spending time until things at home would settle down. I never realized that what I was doing with my dog was training... it just happened, it was natural and was a great deal of fun. I was not inhibited by the utilization of this "method" or that "method". I did not approach training as a process, more as an experience. I simply looked at each scenario as a challenge that WE had to work at to find a solution. If it meant using direct physical manipulation/force, so be it, but often times I manipulated what meant most to my dog and that was food and attention (play, interaction, etc.) and, of course, anything my dog could retrieve, tug on or search for. This would prove to play a great role in my training later on.

Earning Patience as Opposed to Learning Patience

Having patience is something I have had to re-learn. Learning patience (in my mind) is something that is required when there are expectations that are well beyond your ability (and your dogs) that could leave you expecting more at the end of a training session. Your agenda outweighs your ability to teach and your dogs ability to understand what you are asking. When I discuss "earning patience" I am referring to someone (most often a child because adults are tainted by schedules and agendas) who enters into a situation with little or no expectation and allows a process to unfold naturally, where there is great reward simply in what happens, the results of your actions and the response.

As a child, I grew up in a rural area where I would spend countless hours outside interacting with the animals (aside from my dog) earning patience as I went. My home had a creek in the front yard where I would spend my entire summer examining the crayfish, fish and other aquatic life. We used to throw our scrap bread crusts into the creek to feed the fish (primarily trout). I soon realized that by doing this repeatedly that the fish became aroused when we would approach. It was, by no means, an "Aha" moment for me in training. The words Pavlovian Conditioning had no significance to me at this time... it was just, in my mind, "really neat". Eventually, I would spend hours working with the fish in the creek, conditioning them to eat out of my hands, allow me to catch them, examine them, put them back and catch them again. I learned to earn their trust and develop a relationship with them. I learned to recognize specific fish by physical markings, and patterns of behavior (some struck your fingers vigorously, some would calmly suck on your fingers, etc.) and I could almost predict the times at which certain fish would feed (off topic side note for my wife: I accredit this experience with me being able to recognize very subtle details, especially when it comes to identifying specific vehicles that people drive, etc.). It got to the point that when the fish would get whipped up enough, the crayfish would come out and check out the scene. This experience led to me being able to control the schools of fish in the creek by tapping the creek bank to get them to come to me and then rewarding them.... essentially my first lesson in patience when teaching recall. I was a very patient child (with skin like a prune most of the time:)... I wish I could have bottled that patience and kept it with me for now...

In winter, the creek (sadly) froze, leaving me to reach out to other animals for something to do. My mom has, on occasion, reminded me of how patient I was as a child when I would spend countless hours standing by the bird feeders like a statue, waiting for the chickadees to land on my frozen, open palm full of sunflower seeds (this was an exercise in learning patience as I had an expectation/agenda that was developed from my fish experience). This was not an instantaneous process, in fact I logged numerous, 8-hour days waiting for them to come close (damn neighbours always had their bloody feeder full of the best sunflower seeds so the birds had options). Eventually I earned the trust of the Chickadees and they would land and leave quickly to avoid being caught. Eventually they would land in my hand and hang around but, it was not long before they would land on a moving, outstretched hand and even allow me to run a hand over them (not sure they really liked that, but I did it anyway). They would even take seeds from my mouth, but that was sometimes a bit intense, and often a bit painful. In time, it was not not uncommon to be shoveling snow outside and, if you stood still to take a break, the birds would land all over you like mosquitoes in the summer. My grandfather, who encouraged me to feed the birds in this manner was shocked when he could not stand still without them landing on him also. One day I caught him cursing and swishing them away as they landed on him while he was trying to shovel the walkway. This upset me. He quickly realized that I was present and he assured me that he was not upset with me or the birds, but that he was afraid that he might accidentally hurt them if they landed on him while he was moving. He told me I had done a very good job and he chuckled. I remember him covering his cup of tea as he drank so the birds would not land on it. It made me happy to do such a good job and that my efforts had been recognized. Although I was flooded with attention from adults as a kid, I especially enjoyed when people recognized my successes and abilities... some things do not change :)

There is a large gap where I "lost touch" with animals. One might assume that becoming a teenager may have had something to do with it, but I know, deep down, that the reason was the loss of my first dog Buffy. As she aged she slowly began to lose her mobility. One day I found her huddled under a creek bank, and she could not get up. Eventually I got her to the car and mom and I brought her to the clinic. I carried her in to the clinic be euthanized with the intention of staying with her to the end but was talked out of it by the clinic staff and was persuaded to wait outside while they euthanized her (something I regret to this day). I brought her out in a simple cardboard box, took her home and buried her in that same, flimsy cardboard box with the help of my mom. That burial in that makeshift coffin was so unworthy of such a great animal, but I had nobody to help me or teach me to build an appropriate container. This single event had more of an impact on me than I believe I realized at the time, to this day I get choked up when I think about it. My family had other dogs after Buffy, but the connection was lost and my desire to work with animals faded...

Starting Over?

It was not until my wife and I got our second dog together from Bowmanville Animal Services that I slowly became interested again. I watched as my wife was instructed by an old-school, jerk n' pull trainer on the finer points of making your dog "mind" you. Dogs that did not comply were labeled as defiant, especially if they pulled on leash. I remember thinking about how abrupt this was... how I had never required this "harshness" to teach my dog these silly, simple things, but then I was only a little kid at the time, so obviously I didn't know any better. Besides, the people teaching me had "titles" on their dogs, some of them even equating their dogs titles to "university degrees" in relation to dog training. I eventually accepted the idea of using force to train, abandoning what I knew was right and replacing it with a feeling that I needed to be the leader and how my dog would defy me if I didn't have the upper hand. I would start teaching a using punishment to shape a behavior, not because it worked best, but because my dog was going to obey.... eventually, pinch collars and a variety of other devices including slingshots, riding crops, e-collars etc. would be used, but none of them really stuck because I never really liked using them. My timing was great, but for what? To inhibit and intimidate my dog more while it is trying to learn something? It was more of a power trip than a training exercise when these methods were employed...My interest in training began to slide again. I looked for new exciting opportunities and learned about decoy work/bitework with a local trainer who, although talented, was in it for the wrong reasons and I ended up learning a great deal about what not to do with regard to humane treatment of animals and the deception of clients. This experience was an eye opener. I was now beginning to realize the flawed logic that many trainers operated by and the ridiculous theories (that made little sense) that they based their programs on. At this point I had enough experience to question what I was being taught and really analyze what I was doing. Questioning the theories of many of these trainers led to great conflict surprisingly enough... and very few answers to my probing questions.

We eventually had the opportunity to attend an obedience trial at a facility in Pickering where my wife Paula had entered an all-breed obedience contest with Xena, our Bouv/Rott X. After doing very well in her obedience routine, the instructor and facility owner commented on Xenas performance and also mentioned that she would do much better if we weren't so hard on her..... she was right, although I did not know it at the time, and did not want to admit it. From there on, Paula began to look at reward-based methods and apply them to cross train Xena. Things improved, considerably. I was not sold on this... and I don't know why. I was so caught up in the mindset of making my dog respect me and view me as a superior, I could not recognize what had worked so well for me when training my own dog as a child. Eventually, after many intense discussions while traveling to dog training conferences, trials and seminars, Sharon D. as well as Sue G. wore me down, LOL. I began to turn my training processes back into where they were almost 20 years prior. It felt right..... I owe a lot to these two people, they helped me to get back on track and make me "think" (like a child) again.

Being patient when "teaching" when working with animals was something I have had to learn all over again. I still struggle with this occasionally but it is getting easier. I still become impatient and physically abrupt at times but I no longer use force to "teach" but more as a standby and as part of the overall conditioning for the service dogs I raise. Training my dog(s) is (now) about working together, with emphasis on communication. The key for me is to avoid thinking about "getting things done" and concentrate on the process itself. This might be the reason that I prefer not to train my dogs with other people around and do not enjoy the "club atmosphere" when it comes to training. To be honest, the only reason I ever competed was because I knew I had a good chance of winning, otherwise, I had no interest (I am a bad sport at times... most times). I am convinced that my lack of patience was/is not related to my experiences with animals, but due to the experiences I have had with people, mostly trainers who rushed the training process by expecting immediate response from an animal that had no clue what was expected. These trainers would label the dog as "stubborn", "defiant" and "dominant". I reluctantly adopted this mindset. Besides, who was I to judge? I had no formal training and the people instructing me had a great deal of experience (or so they said). I, in turn, took this approach and now realize the flaws in this philosophy. I do not regret learning to train in this manner and I believe that anyone who has not experienced this first-hand has absolutely no right to knock it or come to conclusions about it without experiencing it. There are way too many people preaching about reward-based training and poo-pooing the use of force who have never even experienced both. These people lack experience, pure and simple, and are almost as detrimental to training as those who have a force-only approach and do not have a solid understanding of the use of reward as a training tool. They simply do not know and refuse to learn/experience it for themselves. You can never understand something fully unless you have experienced it for yourself. There is no theory that can replace experience.

Okay, I have gone way off course now... (I am sure you are all very surprised, LOL)

The initial event that sparked this post was a visit from a potential client who had been given bad advice as well as board & train service from someone who was a "certified trainer" who received their certification by way of a popular tv show. They assumed that the certification meant something, especially coming from a source that is so successful and in the public spotlight. This "certification" was all the experience that this trainer had, not even a year of hands-on, but this is not that uncommon. There are dog training franchises you can buy for $48,000 to "secure a territory" and in mere months you will be trained and unleashed on the public with your vast amounts of experience (oh, and you pay royalties as well).

Ugh. What a joke...

Here comes my rant about certification...

Much like a title on a dog (obedience, show, sport, etc.), a certification is an achievement and a show of dedication. It does not prove that the individual who is certified has natural ability, instinct and ability to adapt. For instance, being licensed to drive a car means you have basic skills but does not mean you are a good driver. A doctor may have years of medical school and still be useless (we had one such doctor who nearly killed my brother when he was an infant). Driving a car and practicing medicine have specific guidelines that have to be met and still there are certified individuals who are potentially dangerous.... for dog training there are no standards and no criteria set, except for those set by the course instructors (which obviously can vary). I could certify someone for dog training if they pass my dog training course (which could involve hours of kennel cleaning, washing my car, doing my laundry, etc :). Of course, I would never do this.... but I have seen it done... accompanied by a $1200 fee for the course, which was not much different than what I just outlined. This is an absolute scam, a waste of time and money for the student, not to mention misleading for both the student and the customers using the services of this "certified" trainer in future. Often times these students, having made a significant investment of time and money, feel that they have a "complete" education and that there is nothing more that they need to know, which could not be further from the truth. Now, to really stir the pot, add to this "certification" the backing of a star of a dog training tv show... how is that for credibility and excellent marketing!?!? Much like the popular dog foods that are sold through the emotional appeal of their tv commercials, the trainers (graduates) produced by this tv program are as appropriate and beneficial to their clients as the crap kibble is to the health, behavior and overall well-being of the dogs it is fed to. Their (the trainers) utilization of inaccurate theories to justify their intimidation of animals through force is ridiculous and their inability to teach their clients to successfully use these intimidation techniques often leads to enhanced behavioral issues, mostly reactivity/aggression. These intimidation techniques can work, but if the client cannot replicate them or does not want to do so the result can be less than desirable. The huge "grey area" created by a half-assed effort to "correct" the dogs reactivity usually leads to intensified behavior. This is the point at which most of my clients contact me (perhaps this would explain my critical view on "certification").

Aside from this tv show that is pumping out trainers, there is another program (that touts itself as a "college") that also concerns me. Although it puts more emphasis on reward-based training I question its legitimacy, specifically its choice of "mentors" for its distance-learning clients.... they are shaky at best. I have actually witnessed one particular mentors' training first-hand and I cannot, for the life of me, understand how that individual was even considered for this position. It indicates to me that this program is very, very flawed and lacks credibility.

So What Do I Recommend For Aspiring Trainers?

Now that I have basically bashed everyone but myself (yes, I am that good in my little mind) the question still remains.... how does someone acquire the knowledge and experience to provide dog training services?

It is not easy... been there and I am still there. I continue to learn from people all the time, sometimes from people with great amounts of experience but most often I learn the most from watching novice, talented handlers. It is humbling to watch someone take instruction from me and immediately work through an exercise better than I could ever imagine. On occasion, I actually request some of my students to perform exercises repeatedly so that I can pick up something new from them or just simply admire their ability. It is the closest thing I can come to experiencing it first-hand. I recommend that (rather than take a course) aspiring trainers volunteer to help out at dog training facilities free of charge, to teach classes or audit the classes. Spend some time, see what is happening, look at the successes but also concentrate on where the facility falls short with regards to addressing peoples concerns and the behavior of their dogs. There will be trends in some facilities that will be very obvious, both positive and negative. I see these shortcomings in the dogs that are referred to me by different facilities, in which case most of the issue is truly with the handler and sometime with the instructor not taking the time to ensure that the handler grasps the concepts being taught and ensuring they can apply them.

The next suggestion is one that I make with caution (sorry for anyone involved in rescue but...) and that would be volunteering with a rescue group. There are many out there, many with big hearts but lack common sense and rational thinking. There are others who lack morals and are simply wanting to make a buck and still more that would best serve dogs by closing down altogether due to their poor conditions. After years of volunteer work I am very, very suspicious when it comes to these organizations and although I like to help where I can, I keep my distance and only help out when asked ... and asked ... and asked. No, this is not to have my ego stroked but more to evaluate the agency's commitment.

Next, look into working with your own dogs. Look at what your breed (or mix of breeds) was intended to be good at and try it. Then, choose something that they are not really cut out to do and teach them/motivate them to do that also. Challenge yourself, set goals but do not have a set agenda as to when you should achieve these goals by. Gaining experience is not a race. While doing this, watch other handlers who are successful, whose dogs are excited to work and who work well. These people are often "naturals" who can provide you with a great deal of information if you pay attention to what they do. These people often cannot tell you why their dogs work so well so it can be a challenge to figure out for yourself. In conjunction with this, watch videos, use the internet and read articles about training.

Finally, commit to learning different styles of training, apply them consistently and once you have a good "feel" for what you are doing, note the differences in performance of your dog or the dog(s) you are working with. This in itself is a long-term commitment but will provide you with a great deal of hands-on experience.

Final Thoughts

Training is not a perfect science and I would hazard a guess that most trainers would agree with that. Not being a perfect science makes it necessary for trainers to be flexible and be able to adapt to change by not being resistant to "changing gears", should the need arise. Sometimes it is necessary to look outside of the process itself to make change happen (eg. diet change, access to environmental stimulus, etc.). Trainers who do not know how to change gears are prone to responding in frustration and simply do the same thing over and over (sometimes using greater and greater levels of force, more treats or more exaggerated lures) expecting a different result (Einsteins definition of insanity?). Speaking of frustration, this leads me to the next point... the moment that personal, emotional energy is applied to a training process, the ability to think rationally, to be proactive or react properly goes out the window. Acting purely out of frustration will only undermine training endeavors (and reveal the instability of the trainer in the process). Finally, and this is most important, do not become "loyal" to a process or method. This is something I see all too often. Clients and even other trainers become so wrapped up in what they have learned or what a certain well-known trainer says that they ignore or close their mind to other ideas. This is ignorance, plain and simple. Instead of doing this, take a look at how children discover and learn things. They are shaped by experiences, and learn best from them. Think like a child with no bias towards anything you experience, let it shape what you learn and do not be influenced by what others "tell you" is right. Watch a child handle a dog and watch how they work through a problem (keep your mouth shut and watch them work). They have no agenda, no time limit and are happy with any progress. Adopt their ability expect nothing,

their patience (and sometimes impatience) when working through many repetitions and how they never hold a grudge, make excuses for the dog or for themselves, or have anything to prove, a competition to prepare for or someone to impress.

This is what real training is, and how it should be.

Natural, rewarding...

Fun.

The First Entry.... Where do I start?

Being someone who is a graphic designer by trade, one would assume that I would have embraced technology long ago, had the snazziest website and the most up-to-date blog with all of the bells and whistles. For those of you who already know me, you know this is not my style...

Having built a successful business (Country Lane Pet Resort) almost entirely on word-of-mouth advertising was an experience that has changed the manner in which I look at promotion. There is not much sense in promoting something to simply get people in the door if they will not be willing to stay, so it is best to focus on the quality of the service itself so that those who use the service find value in it and, in turn, tell others. So, for those who were looking for a sales pitch for the training aspect of our business, sorry, none here. However, I will be offering a ton of opinions based on personal experiences, both of which have an impact on one another, so opinions may change with each new experience. This is a perfect lead-in to the first opinion that I wish to share with you :).

Having an opinion should be based on experience. Being loyal to an opinion is an invitation for ignorance and has a great potential to block learning. The less that people cling to an opinion the more open they are to change and potentially improving their own quality of life (and their dogs, LOL)... just an opinion.

This blog will contain a very broad range of topics (mostly dog-related and the humans that maintain them), guest appearances and thoughts rolled into loosely written gobbley-goop as only I can write. I apologize in advance as it may be hard to follow at times. I may provide video clips as a means of communicating thoughts and procedures to some of my students, friends, and fellow trainers. If anyone has some recommendations, has worked with me and wants to add something to the blog, or wants to promote a cause (I am very particular about this last one) contact me and we can discuss it.

In closing, I hope that this blog is helpful to all that read it and/or it puts a smile on somebody's face. If anyone is offended by any of the content in this blog I invite you to discuss it with me.

So, where do I go from here?????